March 2021

Ishkoman Valley is a valley in the Wakhan Corridor of the Pamir Mountains near the Afghan border in Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan. It has an altitude of 7,000 to 12,000 feet (2,100 to 3,700 meters). The valley consists of 20 villages, with a total population of 30,000. The main languages are Vakhi, Khowar, Sheena and Broshki.

                                                                     ( Kurumber Lake)

There are many tourist destinations in Pakistan which are famous not only in Pakistan but all over the world for their natural beauty. One such land is part of our country, which has dozens of canals, waterfalls, waterfalls and meadows rising from the snow-capped mountains.

The mountain cliffs are full of mineral wealth. Cerro visitors find themselves in a new world after arriving here. Its uniqueness is that twelve languages ​​are understood and spoken here at the same time.

This is the beautiful valley "Ashkuman" which is located in the northern region of Gilgit-Baltistan in Pakistan. It is also known as the "Qarambar Valley". The area covers an area of ​​129 km from the Karakoram Mountains to the Himalayas. Gilgit is 65 km northwest of Gahkoch, while Afghanistan's Wakhan border is 50 km above sea level at an altitude of 7,000 feet.

Filled with lush green plains and lakes, the temperature in the Ashkuman Valley drops below zero in the winter. Winters get very cold from November to February and there are several feet of snow these days. March to May is the spring season with heavy rainfall. People grow their crops this season.

From June to August the weather gets very hot due to which glaciers start melting and rivers start rising. Sometimes they even get flooded.

Wildlife in these streams including markhor, nail, cheetah, wolf, duck, ram chakoor, foxes and birds like coyote, pigeon, eagle and other birds make their home here in different seasons.

Gilgit-Baltistan is also unique in that there are about a dozen languages ​​spoken, including Wakhi, Khwar, Shena, Pashto, Persian, Kajri, Kyrgyz, Broshki, Kelly, Urdu, English and Arabic. People of different races and regions have settled here in different periods, who have adopted their own languages ​​here.

It is said that in the first half of the first decade of the twentieth century, it was one of the vast pastures of Gilgit, which was famous for its abundance of forest, grass and vegetation.

Due to the flood in Qurambarnala in 1905, the geographical shape of the valley changed drastically.

In the past, this area was hidden from the eyes of the world. Its population is 30,000. During the Gandhara civilization, Chinese Buddhists used it as a passage and from here they used to go to Gilgit from this valley via Wakhan, Pamir and Yasin.

At first, the valley was also called Eshqman, which is a word in the language of Thabroshsky, which means lush fields and lush green plains. In the present era, the word has become corrupt. Krishnakuman. Broshki is a sweet but anonymous language spoken in Pakistan, spoken by the Broshu people of Nagar, Hunza and Yasin. This language is very ancient and no one knows its origin. (Adapted from the February 10, 2016, issue of Dasht-e-Darya, published by Jang Midweek Magazine)


It is said that man lives his life according to his own thinking. And it is a habit to think in a positive way. If our thinking is positive and we know the art of looking at the world with love, then this world will make us feel as beautiful as heaven. There are thousands of opportunities to fill human life with beautiful colors, but we miss them. Another  opportunity is in front of us in the form of Nawruz.

Nawruz is a Persian word that literally means "new day" and that is why this festival is celebrated at the beginning of the ancient Persian calendar. In Pakistan, Nawruz is celebrated every year on   March 21. The United Nations approved the observance of World Nawruz Day on March 21, a decade ago at the request of countries such as Iran,  Pakistan, Afghanistan, and Turkmenistan. That’s why On  March 21, International Nawruz Day was celebrated under the banner of the United Nations (UN). It is also celebrated around the world at the beginning of spring.

In many countries of the world, spring starts in the month of March and that is why people celebrate the festival of 'Nawruz' in March every year as a celebration of spring. .According to some historians, Nawruz has been celebrated for 3,000 years.


"World Nawruz Day" aims to keep the oldest civilization alive, and since the United Nations declared March 21 as Nawruz Day, so, it is now celebrated around the world every year.

Nawruz Day is also celebrated annually in Ghizer Valley,Gilgit-Baltistan. Every year on “Nawruz Day” Musical programs, Polo matches and other cultural events are held in every district of Gilgit-Baltistan. People of Ghizer valley celebrate this day with special cuisines like Deran and different types of dry fruits. Children do visit their neighbors and relatives to meet with them and exchange greetings.


Punial is a transit between Gilgit and the valleys north to Punial such as Ishkomin​, Yasin, Koh (Gupis), Ghizer (Phunder), and Chitral valley

Gahkoch is a city area of ​​Ghazar district. The distance from Gilgit city to Gahkoch is 70 km. All the central departments of the government are in Gahkoch. Gahkoch has dozens of picnic points on the right and left where all the natural beauties of life are present. But there is a place called Hopper. This is a short place. A hotel called Hopper Garden has been established which is considered as one of the best picnic spots. Domestic and foreign tourists must stop here for tea. We also had tea at Hopper Garden many times. An excellent two-story seat is built on the trees, which are isolated in nature. Tourists enjoy sitting here, after Hopper is the beautiful village of Raushan. There is a distance of 10 km from Gahkoch to Haim and 30 km from Raushan. All these canals and valleys are also exemplary in their beauty and natural beauty. If you go from Gahkoch to Gilgit, then at a distance of 4 km, Kanche, 5 km Bobar Single at 5 km, Shir Qila at 29 km, Glapur and Biarchi at 34 km. All these areas are also ideal.

The customer coach consists of two parts. Customer Coach Top and Customer Coach Payne. The old population is in Gahkoch Bala, but now a large number of people have moved to Gahkoch Pine. There is also a village called Aishi adjacent to Gahkoch Bala. Aishi is a very large and sprawling village. Accompanied by my friend Hakeem Javed Sahib. A huge ground in Aishi Thoko (mound) has been built by Sultan Madad, which is a fine yen ground built on a mound of its kind. The best seats are being made for thousands of spectators. From the luxury polo ground, Gahkoch and all its suburban picnic spots are visible with all their scenery. Hakim Javed Sahib and his uncles walked the streets of Aishi or the journey from the graveyard to Thoko doubled the fun.

The larger the population in Yeshi, the more barren the land. Hakim Javed's entire family belongs to the Ismaili community. Nanhial is still in Ishi and is Ismaili but Javed Sahib joined the Ahl-e-Sunnat community with his family 22 years ago. Javed Sahib has an ideal relationship with his Nanhial and Dohial. He takes full care of the rights of his relatives and family. Are His life is full of bitter and bad memories. He has a barber center in Gahkoch City where he treats patients in the light of the Prophet's medicine. He has also written two books on medicine. He is a very sociable and humble person, he is a scholar of medicine as well as religion. A large "Deedar Gah" for the Ismaili community has also been built in Gahkoch Bala in collaboration with the Aga Khan Foundation and the government.

There is also a two and a half thousand year old fort in Gahkoch Bala. It was a huge fort but over time it has risen to prominence. Gahkoch Fort was built in a very suitable place in ancient times for security reasons. According to Mumtaz Gohar, this fort had four towers. There is only one left. I am very sorry for the decay of the fort. There is also an old polo ground in front of the fort. Many of the fort's buildings are still standing. We tried our best to find the past in the multi-canal fort but the memory of the past remained a torment. Doomsday is apparently the catalyst for a united Khundia and their subsequent emergence as a galactic power. Even today, if the Aga Khan Foundation pays a little attention, like Baltat Fort, Gahkoch Fort can be turned into a great tourist destination which can also earn millions of foreign exchange. From Gahkoch Bala, many villages are clearly visible.

In Gahkoch City, Mufti Sherzaman Sahib and his comrades have set up an excellent and spacious Darul Uloom in 1998, known as Darul Uloom Ghizr, where more than 400 female students and more than 300 male students are always engaged in religious education. Darul Uloom Ghizr arranges their accommodation and meals. Regarding the educational and training matters of Darul Uloom, meetings are held with Mufti Sahib and his comrades especially Maulana Shah Abdullah and Maulana Abdul Razzaq Qazi. Darul Uloom Ghizr. It is the second largest religious education institution in the whole of Gilgit-Baltistan and Kohistan where the best educational arrangements are being made free of cost. Darul Uloom also has a beautiful library which is open to the public. There are several educational institutions in Gahkoch City including Aga Khan High Secondary. Schools and Iqra Hafiz Rawdat-ul-Atifal Schools are very well known and well known for their quality.

There is a huge network of Aga Khan High Schools in Ghizr district where modern and western style education and training is being provided on a large scale while Iqra Roza-ul-Atfal Trust also has several schools in Ghizr where students can memorize the Qur'an. There is still a lot of educational reform in the school. It is hoped that the readers will immediately implement the positive reforms for the betterment of the school. There is also a park which is managed by the Forest Department. Many new hotels have been built in Gahkoch City which are always waiting for the arrival of tourists. Along with the park there is a municipal library where a lot of excellent books are available. Borrow for study which is still under study. After some discussion, the librarian presented the books with a smile. There are a large number of literary and religious books which are always inviting the readers to read.

Along with Gahkoch is Salpi which is a very small village where a large number of Kohistani community live. Opposite Gahkoch is Hatun area. This area is the largest village in Ghazar district in terms of length. The campus of Government Degree College and Karakoram International University has been constructed in Haton. Nowadays, Karakoram International University has been entrusted with the responsibility of conducting graduation exams which I am handling in a cheerful manner. Mixed with The Salpi Bridge was built during the Hafiz period which covered a wide distance. Adjacent to the Salpi is the area of ​​Golodas. The majority of the population has migrated from Hunza. Glodas has the Burlab River Glodas Park which is very attractive due to its natural beauty. This park belonged to a drunken kebab man who started the renovation of the park. He guided him to the right path and he would go out with the Tablighi Jamaat for four months and then he became dear to Allah during the Tablighi journey.

There is a "Bergel Fish Point" at a distance of 32 km from Gahkoch City. Several parties have built dozens of large and small ponds for trout here. These trout are growing with the help of the Fisheries Department. They are fed. We saw trout in thousands of different ponds. Early stage fish in the form of baby is purchased from the Department of Fisheries and put in these ponds, then three months later in another pond, then for three months in a larger pond and reared through their feed. Thousands of fish of the same color and size are reared in the same pond and sold in bulk to large hotels. This farm trout is much less palatable than the original trout of Ghizr. According to the officials of Mountain trout fish farm Bergel, it is estimated that this point will be developed very soon. One is the natural location is beautiful, the other is the clear water of a spring here


It has been two years since this fish farm was built. If the pace remains the same, the farm trout will soon be available in GB at cheaper prices. One kilogram is made of four trout. At a distance of 34 km from Gahkoch city is Chatur Khand where the palace of former governor Pir Karam Ali Shah is located. This ceremony is a masterpiece of its beauty and abundance of flowers and modern architecture. We met Pir Karam Ali Shah Sahib with specialty. He was visiting a crowd of patients. There were five books of amulet hooligans in front of him. He was suffocating a patient and writing amulets for someone. It was a Friday, the rush was heavy, so we immediately asked for permission and the car started filling up on the road from Ashkuman Valley's Main Road to Pir Sahib's Palace. I wish the magnificent and wide road from Main Road to Pir Sahib's Palace was the same road in the whole of Ashkuman, thousands of people would have been saved from the troubles of the road.

My friend Maulana Nadir Shah has established an excellent Darul Uloom in Ashkuman. Adjacent to Darul Uloom is the ancient Jama Masjid, where I have had the opportunity to visit many times. At a distance of 67 km from Gahkoch City, Ashkuman Proper. Basically, all these areas belong to Ashkuman. Among the famous valleys and canals of Ashkuman are Nala Pakura, Nala Asmber, Nala Dalit, Nala Thapashkan, Nala Ashqamtar, Nala Barugaha, Nala Manthantar, Nala Glugha, Nala Chhantar, Nala Shams. Abad and Nalla are Qarambar. All these Nalla-like valleys have all the treasures with invaluable treasures of nature. There are glaciers, high peaks. In winter, the beauty and splendor of these small canals wrapped in beautiful greenery is enhanced and tourists come from far and wide to enjoy these places. We also visited the river full of these natural wonders as much as possible. Tried to enjoy canals, waterfalls, springs and forests and wildlife. Go around and meet sweet-spoken people, but the truth is that the heart is not full.

The distance from Gahkoch City to Qarambar Lake is 142 km. Qarambar Lake is located in Nala Qarambar. The Nala-e-Qarambar, which extends from Amat to the Pamir Plateau, is also called "Bam Dunya". The Pamir extends to Chitral. There are also several passes in Ashkuman, including the Asbar Pass which connects Ashkuman with Yasin. Javashkoman to Hendriasin, Dara Attar Pass to Darkot, Dara Chattar to Yarkhon Chitral, Dara Qarambar to Yarkhon Chitral, Dara Shenj to Wakhan, Dara Khora Borth to Amit, Dara Qalandario and Dara Challenge Pass. Ghandi connects Chapusan while Pakura Pass connects Ashkuman Valley with Gilgit Naltar. Most of the Ashkuman valleys belong to Ismaili community while very few Sunnis also live there. Ashkuman comes from Diamer, Hunza, Yasin and Pamir. People have settled in ancient times. Ashkuman has had a long Rajagi system. Even today, people are not free from the influence of kings.

There are also Buddhist influences in the ancient Ashkuman civilization. In Ashkuman, at the behest of Prince Aga Khan, the first DJ school was established in Ashkuman Centercourt in 1948/1947, where a teacher named Mir Ahmad Khan came from Hunza to teach. They will also build government schools. Now, in the Ashkuman Valley, there are schools of AKESP, a subsidiary of the Aga Khan Foundation. Iqra Roza-ul-Atifal has also set up two or four small schools. Sheena, Gujri, Broshki and Vakhi languages ​​are spoken in the Ashkuman valleys adjacent to Gahkoch. I have also visited the Ashkuman valleys in 2013. Even now I am wandering around full of life, but the truth is that my heart is not full. My heart is not full. Beauty is attracting towards itself. And beauty is the weakness of man. Man bows before his weaknesses. Then human beings have to come here and come again and again. May Allah be our supporter and helper.




The most beautiful area of ​​Gilgit-Baltistan is Ghizer with its lush green valleys, sky-scraping mountains, blue skies and the trout fish found in its clear and transparent waters invite the tourists. In the most beautiful area of ​​Ghazar district, Phinder, which is a piece of paradise on earth, thousands of tourists camp in this paradise-like valley every year. Phunder is a three-hour drive from the Ghazir district headquarters, Gahkoch. Located at an altitude of 8,500 feet above sea level, this most beautiful area is also called Chhota Kashmir. 
In addition to PTDC hotels, there are government rest houses and about half a dozen hotels in the valley. In addition, more than a dozen guest houses have been built by the people here for the tourists so that the tourists who come here do not face any difficulty in terms of accommodation. The people of Ghazar district are very naive and hospitable. The crime rate in this district is almost non-existent while the literacy rate is over 90%. This valley is also called the land of martyrs and conquerors. Thousands of Sputs are defending the country. 

Phander Ghizer in summer

Kargil hero Shaheed Lalak Jan (Nishan Haider) also belongs to the same district. Due to the pacifism of the people here, millions of tourists visit this area every year and after staying here for many days, they return to their areas with good memories. Another special thing about Phandar Valley is that About half a dozen lakes enchant tourists here, and tourists enjoy the world's rare fish, the trout, found in these lakes. Most tourists come here and spend time by the river in tents brought with them instead of staying in hotels. If the federal government improves the condition of the Gilgit-Ghizr highway, millions of tourists can flock to the area every year and our country can be on the path of development in the field of tourism.

Phander lake GB

Apart from Ghizer district of Gilgit Baltistan, there are other areas besides Phandar Valley which invite tourists but due to poor condition of roads, the tourists face difficulties for which Gilgit-Chitral Road Construction time is of the essence. Another special feature of Phinder is that most of the tourists reach here via Gilgit and from here they reach Peshawar via Chitral and from there reach Islamabad. If any tourist reaches Gilgit from Islamabad, he returns via Gilgit. He said that he would not go to Islamabad but would reach Islamabad via Ghirr via Chitral and Peshawar, which would give the tourists a chance to see Gilgit-Baltistan as well as Chitral after staying in the most beautiful valley of Ghirr. ||

Phander Lake Ghizer

Thousands of years old ritual "sowing ritual" was celebrated with enthusiasm in the village of Salgan in Yasin

 The beautiful and heavenly valley of Gilgit-Baltistan "Yasin valley" which is famous not only for its natural beauty but also for the bravery and hospitality of the people living in this valley. However, a good habit of the people here has always been that they are always attached to their culture. In keeping with this tradition, today, on March 11, the thousand-year-old ritual of "sowing ritual" is in full swing in the village of Salgan 

The program was celebrated in Barkalti Shagitan under the supervision of Nambardar Mehboob Shah in which all the commentators of the area participated. The special guests of this program were Mr. Abdul Hameed Khan Sahib and Mr. Ghulam Muhammad Member Gilgit-Baltistan Legislative Assembly Everyone danced and everyone enjoyed the day.

Some more pictures of the celebrations


Chitral: Shandor Polo Festival has been set up on the highest ground of the world. The colorful festival will continue for three days. 

In the Chitral district of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, a beautiful greenery located at an altitude of 12,200 feet above sea level is going to be decorated with the Shandor Mela, which will also feature polo competitions. 

In the Chitral district of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, a beautiful greenery located at an altitude of 12,200 feet above sea level is going to be decorated with the Shandor Mela, which will also feature polo competitions. All arrangements for the festival are complete and there will be a polo final on July 9, the closing day of the festival. The festival will also feature music and fireworks

According to the details, the Shandor Polo Festival was organized on the beautiful weather of Chitral, beautiful scenery and the height of the high mountain. Chief Minister Khyber Pakhtunkhwa Mahmood Khan inaugurated the Shandor Polo Festival. The colorful festival will continue for three days. 

Thousands of tourists flocked to Shandor to watch the competition at the world's highest polo ground. The first match of the festival was played between the teams of Ghizer and Chitral and after an interesting contest, the team of Ghizer defeated Chitral.

A total of six matches will be played in the three-day festival, which will also feature cultural shows from Chitral and Gilgit-Baltistan.

It may be recalled that this festival held in Chitral is steeped in centuries-old traditions in which the local population takes full part.

Gilgit and Chitral teams participate in freestyle polo and the game is as interesting as if there is a Cricket World Cup match between India and Pakistan.

The Shandor Polo Ground is located 168 km from the beautiful valley of Hindu Kush in Chitral and 211 km from Gilgit in Chitral District.

Apart from polo, traditional cultural shows of Gilgit and Chitral will also be held at the Shandor Festival. Domestic and foreign tourists have started arriving in Shandor, located at 12,000 feet, to enjoy freestyle polo.








June is as hot as ever. The hot days until the rains come. Imprisonment in the rooms. The wings have been shown solely to give a sense of proportion. The falling of the blue sparrows. Drinks Little birds roaming the dry grass in search of water, sometimes a coyote perched on a mango tree. In such a situation, the memory of cold days creates a strange sadness.

When the heat is on in Punjab in summer, I miss the shadows of Ghazar district of Gilgit-Baltistan. Man has a picture album in the form of a screen of his mind, which opens and goes away.

Science has come a long way. It does everything for the comfort of the human body but what of the soul, which is an invisible thing. Even if the body finds peace, the search for peace of soul keeps man restless. The principles of its development may not be determined in a laboratory. Traveling to see and feel nature is a great recipe for spiritual peace.

Gilgit is a square. A central place that leads to charming valleys, caves, rivers, springs, canals, waterfalls, plains, and ancient settlements. Before Gilgit, the road leads to Skardu on one side and the Naltar Valley on the other. If we walk to the third side, we reach Khanjrab Pass through Hunza and Hunza. Left fourth direction. The fourth direction leads to Ghizr. Ghazar District The traveler who walks along the Ghazar River reaches Shandor Pass and then beyond it are the settlements of Chitral. Ghirr is a land of colorful waters. Surrounded by trees, this area is truly a paradise and the Phindar Valley is the pearl crown of this area.

I remember the month of Muharram when I decided to leave Gilgit. He descended from the heights of Hunza and encamped at Gilgit. The valley was filled with the sadness of four hundred autumns, which made the whole atmosphere mournful.

Leaving Gilgit in mourning, I proceeded and the Karakoram mountain range was left behind. Now the jeep started running in the mountains of Hindu Kush. If you go out on Ghizr Road, the river Ghizr joins it. Its cool, freshwater waters are full of trout.

Walking along the river, small settlements pass by the river on the right hand side. Proceeding from the site of Sher Qila, the towns of Gahkoch and Panyal greet the traveler on the main road.

Gahkoch is the district headquarters. Across Panyal, across the river, on the right hand side, is a small settlement. The whole village is covered with vines. The light from the grape leaves falls on the ground. The air smells of grapes. Grape production is highest here. Bulls pass over the roofs of houses. When you go in the season, the bunches of grapes look very beautiful.

My introduction to gach is limited to grapes and shades. I like to walk in its streets in the shade of leaves. It is a village completely cut off from outsiders. Except for the main road, no one enters here except the locals, so people stare in amazement at any strange sight. The children run away in shame and the elders stare. That's why there's an uneasiness inside that you should leave.

Ghizr is a district in Gilgit-Baltistan that shares borders with Tajikistan, including Khyber Pakhtunkhwa. On one side are the hilly areas of upper Swat and on the other side is Chitral. The district is also connected to Tajikistan via the Yassin Valley and the Cromber Pass. The population is mostly peasants and Gujars. The word 'ghazar' is derived from the local word 'gharz' which means 'refugee' in the local language.

The rulers of Chitral were called Mehtar. They would send their unwanted people out of the area and go to Gopis in Ghizr. These Chitral Badr people started settling in this area. As a result of the Bhutto government's political reforms, the monarchy came to an end, and Ghizer was given the status of a district. If we look at the history, Ghizr came under the rule of many kings. The Katura, Broche and Khushota families ruled here in different periods, later dividing the whole area between the Mehtar of Chitral and the Maharaja of Kashmir. After 1895, Ghizr was attached to the Gilgit Agency, which was governed by the British.

The crowded market for coaches is small. The car kept passing through small settlements. Gopis came. Gopis is the capital of Ghizer District. I saw an open lake passing by the road. The lake is formed by the stagnation of river water in an open space. The river flows along the lake. Children were selling boiled potatoes on the street. The potatoes here are unique in taste.

When we got off the road and reached the shore of the lake, we saw small fish in the water with the reflection of the surrounding mountains. Clouds began to cover the sky. When strong winds began to blow, the surface of the lake became unstable. Nearby, two locals were fishing. The first drop of rain from the sky made my heart ache, and it was so annoying that the trout coming out of the colorful waters of Ghizr would be less annoying.

 There was rain and there was a lake. It was a wet day. He was a wet passenger in wet moments. Water began to flow down from the mountains. The valley was deserted. If raindrops fell on the water, small waves would run in small circles. Then the rain stopped. The sun peeked out of the clouds. The colors of the rainbow were about to fade, but perhaps they had stopped somewhere or nature had changed its decision in view of my insane state. The day was cold. I left the lake. The jeep began to move slowly on the wet road.

The water of the river Ghazar kept ringing. The water kept flowing. The driver's seat kept changing sides. Abida Parveen's voice kept scattering in the air of the valley. Gangs of children, shy laughter of girls, smiles of elders, astonishing faces of women remained companions. How come What settlements pass? Clouds rained from the sky again. The sun then blinked at the cloud. The farmer working in the fields stopped plowing and said goodbye with a hand gesture.

I forgot to blink my eyelids in the window of the jeep and was lost in the beauty of Ghizr. There were colors that went hand in hand. The green of the fields. Autumn red, yellow, orange, saffron colors. Some fields had been harvested, and their soil was deep khaki. Gray color of electricity poles and dripping wires. Paint the walls of houses. Dark blue in the middle of the black clouds bursting in the sky. I felt like I was on a boat, not a jeep, floating in a sea of ​​colors. The sailor wrapped the sail. Anchored The jeep stopped.

Just below where the jeep was parked, there was blue water with autumn poplar trees standing on its banks. It was Lake Phandar. This valley was Phandar. Pearl crown of Ghizr's head. I remember once before when I was a guest of the same valley and stepped on the land of Phandar, the sun was shining from the walls, the shadows of the poplar were getting longer, the valley was half in the shade, half in the sun.

The sky was now open and a piece of cloud hung over it. He had been hanging there for a long time and I would see him again and again that maybe something had moved on. When the wind blows, the leaves of the poplar and some small delicate twigs fall down. If it fell, it would sound like an explosion. When I heard the fluttering of wings, I looked around, but I did not see any birds, so I looked again at the piece of cloud that was still in its place.

The sound of wings echoed again and a long-tailed bird flew in front of me and perched on a high branch. It was the Bird of Paradise. Its tail was more than a foot long and its wings were blue. The Bird of Paradise is found in the north of Pakistan, but is a very rare bird and is not commonly seen. When you see it flying, its long tail flies behind you in the air as if someone has tied a rope. When the bird flew, I turned my attention to the cloud.

Lamps began to burn in the valley. The lights of the passing cars started burning. The piece of cloud changed color and began to reflect red, then the ink began to turn. What a sight it is to see the valley at the top in the evening. With each passing moment, the shadows deepen and the heart settles within. Night was falling in the valley of Gopis. The lamps were burning. Smoke was rising from the chimneys of the stoves. A cloud of smoke seemed to rise from every house, which hung in the air above and stayed there for a long time. It had been a long time since Shafaq's headline had disappeared, and even a piece of cloud had become a black line.

The valley was flourishing in the morning. Men and women were working in the fields, children were shaking hands and small children were playing sports. A hunter hunted a large bird on the lake of Phandar, the name of which he did not even know, but he knew that the meat of this bird is delicious and is placed on top of the Chitrali hat.

It had been cloudy for half a day, but by noon the sky was clear. There was a rush at the PTDC motel. Lake Phandar is located just below where the PTDC is built. When he went out to eat in the evening, he found a French old man with a thick beard and long white hair. At first I thought that there was a Malang or Dervish-like person. He spoke in broken English so I went to him. While smoking a cigar, he used to go down to the lake.

When the conversation started, he said that his son came to the north of Pakistan many times, and died here. Reinhold was inspired by Messner (Messner is the world's most famous climber), and he himself was a great climber. Her body could not be retrieved from K2, and when it could be retrieved, her mother took her to Austria and buried her in Austria. He occasionally comes to Pakistan on vacation and since he cannot cross the Baltoro Glacier himself, he spends some time in the north of Pakistan, remembering his son and returning.




He said that he came to Pakistan for the first time in a world of hatred. He was irritated by the mountains and Pakistan, but then he was captured by the same valleys that had snatched his son. When his story was over, I said goodbye to him with some words of consolation. I didn't want to be distracted by his cigars, his son's memories, and the lake view.

As evening fell, I sat on a chair behind the PWD rest house, which was connected to the road, where the helipad was also built, and began to look at the valley from a height. The coming of death in the north is a very romantic idea for me, especially when the sun is setting from the mountains and the sky is changing color. By the way, I traveled as much as the chain allowed me to do, and in the future I will be able to do as much as I can with the grief of work, as much as it is fun and business will continue. what should we do. "Even the feet are numb and the hobby does not go away." When night fell, the cold began to seep into my veins and it became difficult to sit outside. Beta in Phandar ended one day.

The jeep started and went beyond Phunder to Tarot. Beyond Tarot Phindar is a small village with small islands in the Ghizer River on which grow velvet grass and a few trees. Let's say there are small islands floating on water. The moon of the first dates shone on these islands and waters, and the stars twinkled.

- Photo by Syed Mehdi Bukhari
Syed Mehdi Bukhari Photo of Ghazar River near Phandar
PWD Rest House Photo by Syed Mehdi Bukhari
It was cold walking along the river Ghazar. It was a night of deep silence. Nothing could be heard except the noise of the water flowing. In the dim light of the moon, the islands would feel like shadows. In distant lost valleys, it is fun to lean against a tree with your hands in your jacket pockets and look for falling stars. Tarot is a magical land, and that too was a magical night. As I write this today, sitting on a hot June night, the front wall of my room becomes a cinema screen, on which the scene of last night in Tarot begins to play.

Insha wrote 'Chand Nagar' which is lying half open on my bed. Insha 'has used the moon and the metaphor of the moon in various places in his poetry. I don't know what Insha Ji used to do in the dark nights. There are moonlit nights. The stars are barely visible in the city lights. My hobby is watching the North Star at night. The northern star is seen from afar and I see it.

It's always here. Doesn't change places and I keep seeing it in the dark of night. Sometimes a city, sometimes a town. This star will shine over Gilgit-Baltistan. At that very moment, its reflection will be dissolving in the waters of Schuster and above the sleeping houses in the valleys of Hunza Nagar. Reflected in the lakes of Ghizr, shimmering on the high valley of Naltar, glistening above the settlements of Ghancha, glistening over the fields of Rama village.

A star also shines in the south, but it is dim. That star will shine on the Jhang behind which a Hazara left the throne and went to Jhang. These two stars are metaphors of love. They always meet in the same place and the moon is a metaphor for wandering which stays in the journey all night. The journey to Gilgit-Baltistan is over. Next was Shindor, where Khyber Pakhtunkhwa begins. Across Shindor were the settlements of Chitral. Somewhere in the settlements they had the valleys of Kailash.